A Cultural Guide to Tashkent

Each year in September, pupils in black and white uniforms flock back to school, busy, yet relaxed working men and women fill-up the streets of Tashkent after a summer in the mountains, taxi drivers once again try to defy death by attempting fast-and-furious-type stunts, and new expats step foot into the mysteries of Uzbekistan for a year or two. And every year when I meet these new comers, I hear the same jingle “But… There is nothing to do in Tashkent”.

So, on that matter, I agree that businesses in Uzbekistan are not the best at advertising, in general. But! That is not enough ground to simply label Tashkent as a boring city.

And indeed, today’s blog post was written for the purpose of proving everyone wrong and providing a much needed guide to Tashkent’s cultural life! That said, this blog post is far from an exhaustive list of things to do in the city, which obviously has much more to offer. I will also not write about things such as the best clubs in town, since clubbing is appalling to me. So let’s call this a beginner’s guide to Tashkent’s cultural life (see here for my Tashkent guide for foreigners).

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1. I/ The performing arts of Tashkent: between traditional and new places
2. II/ The nascent visual arts scene of Tashkent
3. III/ Dancing your way through life in the Uzbek capital
4. IV/ A drink with that concert?

I/ The performing arts of Tashkent: between traditional and new places

1. The State Academic Theatre Alisher Navoi

Centrally located, affordable, with a cultural agenda that suits all ages, the State Academic Theatre Alisher Navoi constitutes a mandatory first step to discovering Uzbek culture. A landmark of Tashkent’s architecture, the State Academic Theatre is absolutely magnificent inside out and also displays some of the most elegant and graceful stage decors I have ever seen.

The theatre’s program usually runs from September to May, since the institution’s artists and musicians are busy touring all around the country during the summer. The State Academic Theatre Alisher Navoi presents a vast repertoire, from European ballets (Swan Lake, Tchaikovsky), operas (Carmen, George Bizet), and classical music concerts (Nocturnes, Chopin) to Uzbek plays and dance performances (Tumor, Charos Djurabaeva), even organising open-air concerts and events. My favourites are Uzbek comic plays, such as the Tricks of Maysara, by S. Yudakov, which features hilarious actors and splendid costumes/decor.

Tickets usually do not cost more than 100,000 soums ($10) and can be bought either at the entrance of the theatre or online. For the best seats, make sure to purchase them at least one week in advance and even more for popular performances such as The Nutcracker.

Website: gabtz.uz/en/

Telegram channel: t.me/gabtuzb

Instagram page: @gabtballet

Facebook page: www.facebook.com/gabtnavoi/

1. Ilkhom Theatre

In terms of culture, the Ilkhom Theatre is another one of Tashkent`s cultural gems. This playhouse often organises events in collaboration with embassies, international organisations, and cultural centres. And indeed, the first time I came here was to enjoy a jazz concert involving some traditional Uzbek instruments, whihch was organised in partnership with the French embassy. Other than concerts, the Ilkhom Theatre is famous in Tashkent for presenting plays with English subtitles.

Situated in between the Pakhtakor Stadium and Webster University, their location is a bit hidden, but the theatre is gifted with spacious premises, where they also exhibit local art, such as last year’s exhibition about art in times of pandemic.

Website: ilkhom.com/en/ (not really up to date)

Instagram page: @ilkhom.theatre

Telegram channel: t.me/ilkhomtheatre

1. State Circus of Uzbekistan

If you have children, the State Circus of Uzbekistan is an obvious choice for entertainment. I have yet to go see their performance, but every local I talk to mentioned this place to me as a must see. However, they also mentioned a strong smell, so take this into account if you have a sensitive nose.

Built in the Soviet Modernism style, Tashkent`s Circus not only offers traditional circus performances, but also constitutes a chance to learn more about the capital’s particular architecture.

Once again, tickets are available either at the building’s box office or online. Their prices range from 20,000 to 50,000 soums ($2-$5). The State Circus of Uzbekistan holds its own performances, but also often invites companies from all around the world, such as the Tajikistan State Circus and the National Circus of Mongolia.

Website: www.cirk.uz/

Instagram page: @sirk.uz

Facebook page: www.facebook.com/uzbekcirk/ (not at all up to date)

1. The Palace of the Friendship of Peoples

If you’re in for something more modern, then the Palace of the Friendship of Peoples is the place for you!

Astonishing Soviet building, the Palace of the Friendship of Peoples holds a stage of 1,152m2 which welcomes Uzbek and international singers, music groups, and comedians. So, I’d say that this place is for people who are a little bit more knowledgeable about Uzbek culture, since performances are more targeted to local taste. I personally witnessed the performance of adored Uzbek singer Jaloliddin Ahmadaliyev back in May.

Seats at this concert hall are much pricier than the above-mentioned places and can be bought online. I recommend the parterre sector, since it is quiet difficult to see the faces of the performers from the balcony.

Regardless of your seat choice, make sure to arrive early so that you can admire the magnificent Palace and its historical square.

Website: iticket.uz/en (for tickets)

II/ The nascent visual arts scene of Tashkent

1. Human House

Human House is really the beating heart of Uzbek culture in Tashkent! First of all, it is an amazing ambassador for Uzbek craftsmanship, with magnificent clothes, shoes, and art handmade from all over the country. And at unbeatable prices as well (the same handmade coat would cost 1,000 euros in France, but is sold at $120 at HH)!

Furthermore, Human House Gallery is a bustling art centre, always alive with exhibitions, workshops, and many other cultural events for all ages. The last exhibition I attended there presented paintings of the historical buildings and houses of Tashkent now long replaced by newer constructions.

Website: human-house.com/

Instagram page: @humanhousegallery

Telegram channel: t.me/humanhouseuz and t.me/humanhouse_events

Facebook page: www.facebook.com/humanhuman.net

1. The Exhibition Hall of the Academy of Arts of Uzbekistan

Situated downtown Tashkent, near Kosmonavtlar metro station, the Exhibition Hall of Uzbekistan is not to be missed. Indeed, it is both a magnificent building heavy with history, and the place to get acquainted with current art trends in Uzbekistan and even Central Asia.

It seems that this gallery holds a permanent collection of pieces from contemporary artists, such as Liana Almyasheva, and young talents from the Academy of Arts. I am pretty sure all pieces in this collection are available for sale as well. Furthermore, the hall also organizes cultural festivals and international exhibitions, such as an exhibition about Kirghiz art.

On top of this, the exhibition hall proposes an outdoor sculpture exhibition. And finally, behind the amazing blue and white building, stands the Kamoliddin Behzod Institute, which proposes an exhibition on the history of miniatures in Uzbekistan and also exhibits some pieces made by the students of the institute, in the Tashkent miniature style.

1. Cultural centres

Tashkent is also the home of many cultural centres which are pretty active when it comes to animating the local cultural life. Particularly dynamic in this field is the Caravan Palace of Culture Ikuo Hirayama. Decorated with a mix of Uzbek and Japanese influences, this cultural center often organizes painting and photography exhibitions on its premises. For example, the center recently held an photography exhibition about the archeological research that took place at the site Karshaul-tepa, in Tashkent Region.

Other cultural centers in Tashkent include:

• The Alliance française;
• The Azeri cultural center;
• The Goethe Institut;
• The Greek cultural center;
• Etc.

1. Another take on cinema

This summer has clearly marked the revival of Tashkent after two years of pandemic, especially in the field of cinema. Indeed, open-air cinemas have popped up all over the city’s parks.

Here I will recommend Sky Cinema, installed at Navruz Amusement Park, but many other parks organise such events. Sky Cinema holds viewings all week, at 19:30 and 21:30, with mainly Hollywood movies, such as The Help and The Great Gatsby, but there are also some cartoons, including works by the great Miyazaki. The only problem: movies are dubbed in Russian, with no subtitles…

Instagram page: @skycinema.uz

III/ Dancing your way through life in the Uzbek capital

1. Tango

How refreshing it is to go from the arrogant, snobbish, and sometimes even mean, Tango community of Paris to the welcoming and friendly group of dancers of Tango Magia! And cherry on the cake, since all attendees have been taught by the wonderful Karine and Rostislav, the tango level is quite impressive too.

So, whether you are a complete beginner or a more advanced dancer, do not hesitate to join this milonga, every Sunday night (check Instagram first). Entrance to the milonga is around 60,000 soums and people sometimes bring homemade or store-bought cookies, candies, or drinks to share.

Tango Magia also offers dance classes for every taste and all ages, as well as Kendo training, and workshops to improve tango technique.

Website: tangomagia.uz/

Instagram page: @tangomagia.uz

Telegram channel: t.me/TangoMagiaTashkent

1. Other Latin dances

And for amateurs of other Latin dances, fear not! The lively city of Tashkent also has many events for you in stock.

For example, the restaurant, The Kitchen, frequently organizes balls for salsa, bachata, merengue, and kizomba dancers. And for hard-core salsa lovers, this Facebook group will keep you up to date with any events related to your dance interest.

1. Miscellaneous dance styles

During the summer, Tashkent City Park opens its doors to Latin rhythms, jazz, and more, often free of charge!

IV/ A drink with that concert?

1. Dudek

Dudek is the closest thing to a night club that I will ever enter. It is a big restaurant situated on Muqimiy street, with a covered terrasse at the entrance and a back room for more festive evenings.

The reason why I highly recommend this place is because, compared to other similar night clubs, the smell of cigarette is not too suffocating. Furthermore, food is quite good, although more on the pricey side.

Another aspect that I really like about Dudek is their choice of artists. In the second room with no windows, there is a small stage, where the restaurant usually invites talented local artists that play a mix of traditional instruments and modern rythms.

There is a catch though, as the night advances, they will start serving you double portions of alcohol even though you asked for one…

1. Bar Duck

Because I am a pretty democratic and open-minded person, I have decided to include Bar Duck into this cultural guide. After all, all beauty is in the eye of the beholder… However, my husband will describe it for you, since it is definitely not my type of place:

“Bar Duck is unique in Tashkent, because it is one of the very few bars of the capital. The atmosphere there is centered around rock: when you enter, you will find a big room quite devoid of sits and a small stage where they hold rock concerts and stand-up comedies on Fridays and Sundays.

I like going to Bar Duck, because even though it’s downtown Tashkent, they have reasonably-priced beer, especially small and cheap Qibray bottles. The only downside of this bar, is that all concerts are announced at 22:00, but usually start one hour later.”

1. Kuranti Bar

I am making a lot of exceptions today, by also choosing to talk about Kuranti Bar. I have never been there personally, but one of my friends hangs out at this bar regularly. She particularly likes DJ Tim Kari, who is often invited at the bar and mixes modern music while being accompanied by traditional instruments.

Spending an evening at Kuranti Bar also means looking at the great Amir Temur place by night and experiencing a trendy night at one of the most famous historical buildings of downtown Tashkent.

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As I was writing this blog post, I realized that I could actually go on and on about the many places organizing cultural events in Tashkent. For example, I also attended a classical music concert at the National Conservatory and I browsed through a Christmas market organized at the House for Youths, in collaboration with the UNESCO.

So, by no means would I characterize Tashkent as a boring city! But it is true, if you want to find interesting things to do in the Uzbek capital, you have to search for it. Some other resources to help you on your cultural journey include:

• Afisha – A website dedicated to cultural events in Tashkent (Russian only);
• Tashkent Events – A Telegram channel publishing news in English about cultural events in the capital;
• Tashkent Modern Life – A Telegram group for foreigners living in Tashkent.

And of course, you can follow my blog for frequent updates on the history and culture of Uzbekistan!